New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is a strategic moment for the American fashion houses beyond the glitz and glam. It is one of the four main fashion weeks that operates biannually, and, this fall, designers presented their lines for Spring/ Summer 2026. Because of the shifting leadership roles, audience and overall consumer culture, NYFW has changed from its peak in the 90’s and early 2000’s, but it remains vitally important, especially for the smaller brands. These independent designers get the chance to speak and gain recognition, without the pressure of competition from the major brands owned by LVMH or Kering. The collections shown are more versatile and functional than brands at London, Milan or Paris Fashion Weeks. Today, the shows and presentations have become centered around branding, marketing and relations, providing more of an “experience” that will catch the attention of people watching on social media. Many shows prove to be commercially successful as Zoe Latta, co-designer of Eckhaus Latta, explained: “A majority of our marketing budget is our shows and making money with sponsors and small collaborations.” It is extremely difficult to provide a show that both captures attention, yet is generally wearable and excites the customer. After reading and listening to many sources, I found the favorite shows across the board. 

Despite the infancy of Diotima, founder Rachel Scott (who has won multiple CFDA awards) has proved to be capable of producing a standout show with fan favorite designs. This show marked Diotima’s runway debut which displayed their rapid growth and success that has taken place over the past few years. Diotima’s signature Caribbean crochets, knits and textures took hold in a new way, transforming into a mix of sporty and tailored looks. The inspiration for this collection was Carnival (celebrated in the Caribbean on days leading up to Lent), and the theme was apparent through the bright colors, bold designs and small embellishments – such as fringe, ruffles or sequins.

Proenza Schouler, who recently appointed Rachel Scott of Diotima as head designer, produced a collection that paid close attention to small details. This collection was a collaboration between Scott and the design team, and her small changes to the brand’s signature outlines did not go unnoticed. Bright blurred patterned dresses and skirts, trenches with raw edges, and sharp tailoring in a multitude of different fabrics took on a playful and evolving future for the brand. Taking from her brand Diotima, Scott brought in more natural elements that gave a cohesive, carefree, and unrestrained theme. 

Khaite always promises an exciting show where celebrities and the chicest people in the industry are sure to be spotted. “Sophisticated yet cool” describes Khaite, with their signature, bold architectural elements and juxtaposition of fabrics. This collection was textured, and it’s not so much the fabric that makes it incredibly special, but the way the garments are constructed and how they move down the runway. The small flower details on the blouses, the sharp tailored tops and the flamboyant polka dot skirts are all examples of the designs doing the talking. Khaite has had huge commercial success despite their high price point. The popularity of their handbags has skyrocketed, making up 40% of their annual sales. While some of the looks this season looked uncomfortable to wear, Khaite understands their customer and how far to push them with exotic new designs while still keeping in mind they are a business and their product has to sell.

“Preppy” is having a big moment currently and Calvin Klein went back to their roots to master this trend. Head designer Veronica Leoni did a wonderful job of realistically capturing New York street style. The minimalist coded clothes were a nod to simple but chic ways of dressing. The tailoring on the dresses and blazers, and paper like fabric used for trench coats captured interest. But, a few of the fringe dresses and pom pom skirts I felt weren’t coherent with the rest of the more casual and realistic style of the show, and it’s questionable if customers would go to this particular brand for a louder design, since that’s not what they are traditionally known for.  

New York Fashion Week continues to evolve, reflecting the broader state of the industry, culture and commerce. It highlights the independent creativity, practical designs and connection to cultural heritage that brands weave into each piece of clothing. I believe the new generation of small designers with great creative visions can restore life to the fashion week that has been looked over in the past.